Fig. 83:  (1-11) Gugel in vorshiedener Anlage(Hats (?) with different construction) Fig. 84:  (1-3, 5, 8) Schnabelschuhe(pointed toe shoes); (4-7) Untershuhe(undershoes); (9) Stiefe (boot); (10-11) Stumpfe Schuhe oder "Ochsenmäuler"(blunt shoes or "Oxen- mouth")vom Ende des 15. Jarhunderts (from the end of the 15th Century)

Some fancy clothing of the 15th Century... I have long wanted to do the dress at #12 as it is described below, doing it with real embroidery rather than machine made trim.

 

Unterstes Kleid, nur an Handgelenk un Fuss sichtbar, rot; zweites Kleid Goldbrokat mit grünem Schimmer, roter goldbesezter Brust-und Halsborte; drittes oberstes Kleid hellblau mit Goldormamenten, Hemd, am Halse sichtbar, weiss mit roter Mittelborte; Haube rosa mit Goldlinien; Krone golden mit weissen Perlen. Under (lowest) dress, which shows only at the wrist and feet, is red;  the second dress is gold brocade with green shimmers, red gold trim  on the breast and neck border; third over dress is light blue with gold  ornamentation; the shirt, only seen at the neck, is white with red  middle border; the hood (veiling) is pink with gold lining; the crown is gold with white pearls.

(3)  Kleid grün, Puffen weiss, Brustlaz weiss mit Goldstickerei, haarnez gelb, Band Grau (dress green, chemise cuffs are white, breast portion white with gold stitching, hairnet gold, grey banding or lacing); (4)  Kleid blau, Hemd weiss, Mantel Goldbrokat, Borte golden, Haarnez oben rot, sonst golden (dress blue, shirt white, cloak gold brocade, braid golden, hairnet over is red, otherwise golden).

(1)  A sleeve pattern ; (2) A cloak pattern; (3) Pattern for crotch area of a pair of hose; (4) A parchement painter of 1496; his cloak is brown with black fastenings, skirt with armholes is red lined with black, shirt that shows at the elbow and neck is white, over-hose are red with black, under-hose are white, his shoes  are black; (5) A cloak pattern; (6) Another cloak pattern; (7) [couldn't translate all of this one] Costume for a member of the Order of the Holy Ghost, in the year 1352, when Ludwig (?Louis) was the King of Jerusalem and Sicily.

(1) Entire outfit in grey with violet stitching, skirt trim is brown fur, hat decoration is gold, shoes black, pouch and belt are black with gold fittings; (2 & 3) patterns for the outfit in #1; (4-8) patterns for the outfits in #9 & #10; (9) Tappert (?) is pink, the under "dress" is blue, hose are gold and brown with a black & white patch, the hat is blue with a gold band, undershoes are leather color; (10) Tappert (?) is blue with red dangles at the arms, the under "dress" is gold, the hose are blue-grey, the cord at the back is brick red.

(1 & 4) Pattern for #12 in the following picture; (2) pattern for #8 in the following picture; (3 & 5) underdress in the French style at the end of the 15th century;  (6) overdress in the French style same period.

(Sorry for the quality of this scan... my scanner made all the funny little squares... solids are definitely solid -- only #10 had a pattern to the fabric)  The two dresses mentioned above are the very center one and the second from the left bottom row.

Fig. 92.  I am thinking the first hair-do is allegorical, and the last one (far right) said it was for a costume party. Fig. 93.  (1 - 4) Clothing for the last half of the 15th century.  Can you make out the style of the apron on #4? I purchased a similar one from a Laurel in the East Kingdom several years ago... very simple design of a small rectangle with a full width of fabric gathered into it... same front as back (makes it reversible). To see my apron, click here.

Some of these hats are still worn with Regional Costumes (especially #9 & 10).  I'd say #19 & 20 are allegorical.

I would love to make #12  (I think #16 is a side view of it) some day... the correct way.

16th Century

Manly dress of the first half of the 16th century, of which only three were described, and those were not the most interesting ones (i.e., the Landsknecht ones).

Again, I appologize for the quality of the picture.  The only patterned fabrics were numbers 1, 2, 14, and 15... and those were done as swirls, and did not show any "real" pattern (except for the trim on #15... that does look like it was done in a vine pattern).

The top half of this page is men's hats.  They are labeled thusly:  1-10. Barette (beret or caps), 11. Sackmüze (sack [? cap... couldn't find müze in my dictionery]), 12. & 14. Bauermüzen (I am assuming these are farmer's caps), 13. Künstlerhut (artist's hat), 15. & 16. Kaputze samt Kragenzwickel (hood with a rolled collar??) There were extensive explanations for the women's clothing shown here and on the next page (which I did not scan, but should have).

Again, extensive explanations, which I will try to translate as best I can.   Not all the dresses were described in the book.  The Lady (?) at # 3 is not explained; however, I cannot but wonder how in the world she stayed "decent."  My guess is that she is a courtesan of some sort.  Note the cartridge pleating at the waist sides only... similar to the dress I liked earlier (the one with the bells around the collar with the pleating inset into the center of the stomach area).  Amazingly, I found a well illustrated explanation on this technique in the Threads magazine, Issue 79, Nov. 98. (1.)  Kleid samt Leibchen zinnoberrot, Besaz am Leibchen sowie linker Aermel mit Silber gestickt, Haarhaube weiss, mit Gold gestickt und mit Goldborten überspannt, Halskette golden, Brustfleck weiss mit Gold (dress with a cinnamon (something) stomacher (?) piece, the border of the left arm piece is embroidered in silver, the veil to the headpiece is white with gold embroidery and gold trim on the headpiece itself, a gold necklace, and the breastpiece is white with gold). (2.) Klied orangefarbig mit scharlachroten Litzen und Schnurbesäzen, Bauschen an Schultern und Ellbogen weiss, Brustfleck rosenfarbig mit Goldperlen, obere Borte orangefarbig mit grünen Buchstaben und goldene Randschnüren, Ketten golden, Barett purpurrot mit weissen Bäuschchen und goldenen Litzen, Calotte golden (dress is orange with scarlet cording and piping, breastpiece is rose with gold beads and an over border of orange with green lettering and gold ties, the chain fasteners are gold, the cap (hat?) is violet [red-purple] with white poofing and gold beads, [?Calotte] is gold). (7.)    Kleid  scharlachrot mit weissen Puffen und goldenem Saum am Brustausschnitte, Gürtel schwarz mit Gold, Brusteinsaz weiss mit Gold, Barett scharlachrot mit weissen Federn, Calotte golden(dress is scarlet with white cuffs and golden lining under the breast slashes, the belt is black with gold, the breast insets are white with gold, the cap is scarlet with white feathers, [?Calotte] is gold). (10.)  Kleid mit Leibchen weiss, Einsaz am Rüchen ebenfalls weiss, Aermel gelb, Mantel (nur unten sichtbar) scharlachrot, Häubchen abwechselnd grün und golden gemustert, Saum des Häubchens golden und mit weissen Perlen gerändert, Stirnschleier weiss, Gürtel golden(the dress with vest-like bodice is white, the insets likewise at the back are white, the arm [?arm hole] is golden-yellow, the cloak (just seen underneath) is scarlet, the small cap alternates with green and gold patterning, the seams [slashes] of the cap are golden with white pearls running throughout, the veil is white, the belt gold). (11.)  Kleid hellblau, Ausschnitte an der Brust weiss mit roten Verzierungen, Schürze violett, Koller blau mit schwarzem Besaze und violettem Futter, Barett rot, Federn weiss und grün, Halsschmuck golden (dress is light blue, there is white puff & slashing on the breast with red "windows," the apron is violet, the cape-like collar is blue with black trim and violet lining, the cap is red, the feathers alternating white and green, the neck jewelry is gold). (12.) Kleid hockrot, an den Aermeln mit goldenen Querborten umspannt, Puffen an Achsel und Vorderarm schwarz, an Handgelenk und Ellbogen weiss, Brustfleck unten weiss mit schwarzen Nesteln, oben gelb mit weissen Perlen; Hemdeinsaz darüber weiss mit Goldstickerei, Hals- und Brustschmuck golden, Koller schwarz mit braunem Pelz, Häubchen golden mit weissen Perlen(dress is bright red or crimson, the arm pieces are golden with black lacing at the upper arm and forearm, the white chemise shows at the wrist and elbow, the lower portion of the breastpiece is white with black lacing, it is gold at the top with white pearls; the chemise showing at the neck is white with gold embroidery, the jewelry is all gold, the collar is black with brown fur lining, the little cap is gold with white pearls).

 

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